Fashion & Textiles

How to express Silk fabric quality or weight?

Momme is the term used to express the quality of silk fabric.

Mommes (mm), is traditionally used to measure the quality of silk fabric. The momme is based on the standard width of silk fabric of 45 inches (1.2 m) wide (though silk is regularly produced in 55-inch (1.4 m) widths, and, uncommonly, in even larger widths).

So the weight in pounds of a piece of fabric with a size of 45 inches by 100 yards OR  (1.2 m X 90 m).

Therefore one Momme is defined as the weight in pounds of a 45 inches by 100 yard piece of silk.

One momme = 4.340 g/m²;

an 8 mommes is approximately 1 ounce per square yard or 35 g/m².

Different weaves of silk fabric and their weight

The usual range of momme weight for different weaves of silk are as below:

  • Habutai—5 to 16 mm
  • Chiffon—6 to 8 mm (can be made in double thickness, i.e. 12 to 16 mm)
  • Crepe de Chine—12 to 16 mm
  • Gauze—3 to 5 mm
  • Raw silk—35 to 40 mm (heavier silks appear more ‘wooly’)
  • Organza—4 to 6 mm
  • Charmeuse—12 to 30 mm

The higher the weight in mommes, the more durable the weave, and the more suitable it is for heavy-duty use. And, the heavier the silk, the more opaque it becomes. This can vary even between the same kind of silk. For example, lightweight charmeuse is translucent when used in clothing, but 30-momme charmeuse is opaque.

Classification of Silk fabric based on Weight and recommended usage

24 gram6mmSheer lightSilk Chiffon, Silk GeorgetteScarfs, dresses, blouses
30 gram8mmSheer lightSilk Chiffon, Silk GeorgetteScarfs, dresses, blouses
45 gram12mmmedium weightSilk Satin, Crepe De Chine, Silk TwillBlouses, scarf weight
60 gram16mmheavier weightSilk Satin, Crepe de Chine, Silk Twill, Double GeorgetteDresses, blouses, scarfs, ties, Lingerie, pillowcases, sheets
70 gram18mmslightly heavier, denseSilk Satin, Crepe De Chine, Silk Twill, Heavy crepe silkTrousers, Dresses, scarfs, pillowcases
80 gsm21mmheavier, denseSilk Satin, Crepe De Chine, Silk Twill, Heave crepe Silk,Duppion SilkDresses, Cocktail dresses, Evening Wear
90 gsm24mm Silk Satin, CDC (Crepe De Chine)Bridal, Couture
100 gsm27mm Silk SatinBridal, Couture
113 gsm30mm Silk SatinBridal, Couture
150gsm40mmHeaviest weight for Woven SilkSilk Satin, CDCBridal, Couture, Suits
classification of Silk fabrics: fabrieka.com
Silk fabric

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